Machu Picchu with a Toddler: A Solo Mom's Survival Guide"
Picture this: you're standing in Aguas Calientes at 6 AM, your husband is back at the hotel sick as a dog, you have a fanny pack with 3 diapers and a half of a pack of wipes, and a two-year-old who thinks this is all a grand adventure. This was my Machu Picchu reality. Thing I didn’t expect about Machu Picchu with kids, it wasn’t the hike up the ruins that was the most challenging part.
When Plans Fall Apart (And They Will)
Twenty minutes before leaving our Sacred Valley hotel, Ryan (my husband) started getting violently ill. We still don’t know the root cause (the water? Altitude sickness?) He attempted to make it on the train, but we were pulling over the taxi the whole way there. Unfortunately, sickness waits for no one, and it definitely doesn't care about your expensive, non-refundable Machu Picchu tickets. He realized he wasn’t getting better anytime soon and had to turn back.
So there I was, deciding whether to turn back with him or continue solo with a toddler and zero supplies (as we had planned for him to carry the hiking backpack). I knew I couldn’t handle the large backpack and my son together (I’m pregnant and the full weight was more than I should be toting) so I opted to shove what little I could into my fanny pack and then I chose stubborn determination over common sense. We continued on by ourselves. Sometimes that works out.
The Train Ride: Make It or Break It
The PeruRail Vistadome train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes is honestly incredible. Those panoramic windows are worth every penny when you're watching the landscape shift from rugged mountains to lush cloud forrest. I loved the view as we passed several rivers and cliffs, including views of some incredible peaks.
Pro tip: book the early train (we booked 6am but could have easily done 7am too) Not only do you beat some crowds, but if your toddler falls asleep on the train you might actually stand a chance at having a rested child for the ruins (unfortunately mine was a little TOO into the view and slept, well - none. Timing is everything.
Aguas Calientes: The Waiting Game
Here's what the guidebooks don't tell you: you'll have significant waiting time in Aguas Calientes before you can go up via bus if you aren’t doing the full hike. Bus tickets are sold separately from entrance tickets, and you need to arrive 1-1.5 hours before your entrance time. What WAS a nice surprise is how easy it was to get a ticket. I was originally expecting to get off the train and enter chaos trying to navigate some busy bus station that could have been possibly sold out or hard to figure out. It was the opposite of that expectation. The station was easy to find, there was not a long wait to get a ticket, the process was clear and we were in and out with tickets in less than 5 minutes.
There is a decent bit to do in Aguas Calientes if you have a long wait. There are artisan markets you can browse, shops and plenty of restaurants. Casual paced browsing or eating isn’t exact something easy with a toddler, so we opted for a riverside sidewalk picnic of snacks. We had a nice view and I didnt have to worry about keeping him seated and happy while running on low sleep.
You do not have to pay for a toddler, but keep in mind if you don’t pay for them, they don’t get a seat. They let a specific number of people on each bus so you should expect them to enforce your child needing to sit on your lap.
The Bus Ride That Changes Everything
The bus ride up to Machu Picchu takes about 20 minutes of winding mountain roads. This is where Murphy's Law kicked in, Asher fell asleep in my lap about two seconds after boarding. Unfortunately, we were waiting in the line to get on during his normal nap time, so there wasn’t exactly an opportunity to lay down as we were frequently moving up in the line.
I knew immediately this was bad news. He was going to wake back up groggy, cranky and upset right before we needed to hike around ancient ruins. And yes, that's exactly what happened.
The Reality of Machu Picchu with a Cranky Toddler
Let me paint you a picture: you've just reached one of the world's most spectacular archaeological sites, your toddler is having a meltdown because he's tired and confused, and you're trying to take it all in while trying to figure out how to get a crying child to the top by yourself. Instagram-worthy family photos? Absolutely not happening. Picture-perfect moments? Nope. But you know what? After the most exhausting walk up I could have experienced, It was still absolutely worth it. The reality is the hike is not that difficult. Don’t get me wrong its not flat by any means but no harder than your average mountain hike or than the ruins in Ollantaytambo. Would I recommend doing it by yourself, pregnant, with an upset 30 lbs child who is acting like a sack of potatoes of dead weight? Definitely no. Would I do it again if that was my only option? In a heartbeat.
Asher was finally on flat ground and regaining some composure. He was interested in all of the “camels!” (llamas) at the top and was really taking in the view. He still wasn’t game for any smiling photos though.
When Mother Nature Joins the Party
Just as Asher started to calm down and actually walk around at the peak (about 20 minutes into our view) the clouds started to roll in and the rain started. Not just a drizzle, a full mountain downpour. Now I'm carrying a soaked toddler down the “no mommy slippery!” wet stone steps while pregnant, with my center of gravity completely off.
This is where good gear becomes crucial. Having proper rain gear and non-slip shoes isn't just comfort – it's safety. Take your time, accept help when offered, and remember that everyone else is dealing with the same weather.
The Return Back & Taxi Negotiation Olympics.
We got back on the Vistadome train back to Ollantaytambo and I had never been more excited to sit down. Even if we were both soaking wet. The train offered complimentary snacks and during a portion of the ride they even offer a little entertainment (there is a special train car where they put on a show and have a live band play while they do traditional dances!) My phone was dead and as I mentioned in the “supplies” note, we were lean on entertainment so I was very grateful for the train to have some built-in fun.
Getting from the Ollantaytambo train station back to our Sacred Valley hotel required some serious negotiation skills. The first taxi driver wanted 100 soles for what should cost 10-15 soles locally.
I stood firm, told him I'd walk into town to find someone else, and eventually got him down to 30 soles (which I barely had). Sometimes travel with kids means picking your battles, and while I’m stubborn, I wasn’t going to argue all night. We were ready to lay down!
What Actually Matters: Gear and Mindset
Essential gear for Machu Picchu with toddlers:
Way more snacks than you think you need
Backup clothes in waterproof bags
Patience (can't buy this, but it's your most important item)
The mindset shift: Let go of perfect. Embrace chaos. Focus on the experience, not the photos. Your toddler won't remember the tantrums, but they will remember the adventure.
The Unexpected Silver Lining
You know what's amazing about doing Machu Picchu solo with a toddler? You're so focused on managing the logistics and keeping your child safe that you're completely present. No phones, no distractions: just you, your kid, and one of the world's most incredible places.
When Asher finally calmed down and started exploring, watching his wonder at the ancient structures was more magical than any perfect photo could have been.
Would I Do It Again?
Absolutely. But next time, I'm bringing backup plans, better weather gear, and maybe some bribery snacks. Sometimes the best travel stories come from the moments when everything goes wrong but you make it work anyway.
Machu Picchu with a toddler isn't easy, but it's possible. Just remember that the goal isn't perfection, it's adventure. And trust me, you'll get plenty of that.
