Exploring Puglia: Matera, Alberobello, and Polignano a Mare
When we planned this trip, Puglia was one of the regions I was most excited about. Known for its unique towns, rich history, and dramatic landscapes, it felt like the perfect place to explore something new. After flying into Bari, which served as our hub, we set out to visit Matera, Alberobello, and Polignano a Mare three destinations that couldn’t have been more different from each other.
Here’s everything we did, why we chose the route we did, and what I’d recommend if you’re planning your own adventure in Puglia.
Where We Stayed: Bari as a Base
Bari wasn’t the star of the show, but it made sense for us as a base. It’s centrally located for day trips to the surrounding towns, and the transportation options (trains, buses, and highways) made it a logical choice. Our Airbnb was close to the train station, which was helpful but came with a downside: noise. Between street activity and the nearby university, evenings were lively, to say the least. Thank goodness for white noise apps.
That said, Bari does have its own charm. The Old Town is lovely for a morning stroll, and the promenade is a peaceful spot to take in the Adriatic views. If you’re using Bari as a base like we did, I’d recommend carving out around a half a day to explore the city itself.
Day 1: Bari and Polignano a Mare
Our first full day in Puglia started with a leisurely morning in Bari. After exploring Old Town and grabbing lunch, we headed to the train station to catch a ride to Polignano a Mare. But, in true off-season fashion, the train was canceled. Instead of scrapping the plan, we hired a taxi, which was pricey (150 €) but got us to Polignano in time for sunset.
Polignano a Mare Highlights
Polignano a Mare is the kind of place that takes your breath away the moment you see it. Perched on cliffs over the Adriatic, the town feels like a scene from a movie. We arrived just as the sun was setting, casting golden light over the whitewashed buildings and turquoise grottoes. While many shops and restaurants were closed, the quietness added to its charm. It was the city here that reminded me the most of the white-washed streets of Greece, which makes total sense given their proximity to each other.
💡 Tip: Plan to arrive earlier in the day if you can. Sunset is gorgeous, but transportation options can be limited in the evening, especially in the off-season so this gives you time to replan if something doesn’t go as planned.
Day 2: Matera and Alberobello
This was the day I’d been looking forward to the most. Matera and Alberobello were bucket-list destinations for me, but figuring out the logistics took some planning. Many tour companies offer day trips that include both towns, but after reading reviews, we decided to rent a car instead.
Why We Chose to Rent a Car
Tours can be convenient, but we ran into two main issues: cost and control. Most tours charged around €200 per person, which would have totaled €600 for our group. On top of that, reviews mentioned strict schedules and occasional safety concerns with certain drivers (no air conditioning, speeding, etc.). Renting a car cost us €150, plus €30 for a car seat, and gave us the flexibility to explore at our own pace. Driving out of the city is a bit chaotic with all of the pedestrian traffic and bus/taxi lanes, but once out of the city, the drive itself was a sight to see! Think rolling vineyards and olive groves dotting the countryside in between giant windmill farms Having our own car made stops and detours easy, and Asher even got what felt like his first real solid nap of the trip.
Alberobello: The Trulli Town
We started with a drive to Alberobello, a town famous for its trulli—cone-roofed stone houses that look straight out of a storybook. Seeing the trulli in person was incredible. The craftsmanship and charm of these structures are unlike anything else in Italy.
While Alberobello was quieter than I’d expected, we enjoyed walking through the town, snapping photos, and popping into the few shops that were open. One shop sold adorable ceramic whistles which apparently have won awards in their yearly whistle competition (they also had beautiful handmade linens). We stayed for about 90 minutes, which felt just right given the limited options in the off-season.
Matera: A Surreal Experience
The old town of Matera
Arriving in Matera, at first it feels like a normal city. You wonder “just where are these caves and old town roads?” After parking and strolling a couple of blocks you are greated by your first view and it is absolutely incredible. The ancient cave dwellings, or sassi, are a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world. Walking through Matera felt like stepping back in time. The stone streets and buildings seem to grow out of the cliffs themselves, creating a labyrinth of history and beauty.
We spent time wandering the narrow alleys, stopping at the multiple viewpoints to take in the incredible landscape. Asher loved climbing around (with supervision, of course), the quiet atmosphere made it feel magical like it was an old abandoned city all to us. I ended up carrying the stroller for the most part while Asher stayed perched upon his father’s shoulders to handle the stairs, but it was worth it.
💡 Tips for Matera:
Wear comfortable shoes; the streets are uneven and steep.
A stroller is a no-go here stick to a good baby carrier or be ready to carry little ones.
Allocate at least 2 hours to take it all in, and more if you are taking a tour or trying to go in the caves themselves.
Final Thoughts on Puglia
Matera and Alberobello are two of the most unique places I’ve visited in Italy, and Polignano a Mare added a touch of coastal beauty to the mix. While the off-season came with challenges, like canceled trains and limited dining options, it also gave us the chance to explore these incredible towns without the crowds.
If you’re planning a trip to Puglia, consider renting a car, especially if you want to visit multiple towns in one day. The freedom it gave us was invaluable, and the scenic drives were a highlight in themselves.
Would I visit Puglia again? In a heartbeat. It’s a region full of surprises, and I can’t wait to see what it’s like in a different season.
