Salerno: A Perfect Base for Exploring the Amalfi Coast
When planning this trip, we had a few options for our Amalfi Coast base. Amalfi itself felt a bit too small (and pricey), and while Naples was on the table, we opted out for a direct route to Salerno. Why? Salerno struck the perfect balance: a lively town with great restaurants, a gorgeous boardwalk, and easy access to Amalfi and other coastal gems like Positano and Sorrento. Naples is fairly large city, and while Salerno has all the same “big enough” city perks (shopping, plenty of restaurants and nightlife) is still has the charm of a smaller town.
Here’s how we spent our time in Salerno and navigated the stunning Amalfi Coast.
Where We Stayed: Salerno as a Base
We arrived in Salerno late in the afternoon and were instantly charmed. The wide promenade along the sea, bustling shopping streets, and local vibe made it clear we’d made the right choice. Our Airbnb was a dream a spacious three-bedroom apartment near a local market where we stocked up on fresh olives, pecorino cheese, and a $4 bottle of Chianti that was far better than it had any right to be.
After settling in, we opted for a relaxing dinner and a quick stroll along the boardwalk before it got too late.
💡 Why Salerno:
It’s more affordable than staying in Amalfi or Positano.
It is a little larger than the small towns, so it is easier to find options when popular spots might be crowded.
It has excellent train and ferry connections (train connections to get to Salerno as well as Ferry connections to get to all of the popular Amalfi coast cities)
The town itself is vibrant but not overwhelming a perfect mix of local life and tourist accessibility.
Salerno or Sorrento: Which one is better for exploring the Amalfi Coast?
This is a classic question, but if I personally were making a recommendation to a friend this is what I would say
If you have enough time. Do BOTH. Stay in Salerno as your Amalfi and Positano hubs (easy access to ferries, bus or cars) with tons of options departing daily. Then carve out time to take a car or train (we took the train to save $$ It an easy 3 hrs as it has to go up toward Naples first) and then stay at least a night in Sorrento itself.
If you only had time to see one, I wouldn’t miss Sorrento. I absolutely loved it there and would recommend at least two nights. However, from our time there it didn’t seem like the easier hub (over Salerno) for getting to Amalfi or Positano. Cab rides have to cut through the mountains and can take over an hour each way which can get really costly.
TLDR: I’d do at least 2 nights in Salerno - use the days for the day trips to Amalfi and then return to the countless shops and restaurants Salerno offers. Then head to Sorrento and dedicate at least 2 days/nights to soaking it all up. In my opinion if you stay in Sorrento and spend the whole time heading off to other places, you’d miss so much of what that city has to offer on its own. You can easily enjoy a day there without going anywhere else.
Day 1: Rainy Days and Salerno Strolls
Our first full day in Salerno was rainy, so we opted to stay local instead of heading to Amalfi. This turned out to be a blessing in disguise. We spent the day walking along the promenade, stopping at cafés, and browsing the shops on Salerno’s main pedestrian street. Salerno has a lot to offer by itself so it was nice to have a slower relaxing day, especially traveling with a 2-year-old to Italy.
Salerno is known for its Christmas displays, and while the lights weren’t fully operational during our visit since we were there just before Thanksgiving, but we loved seeing the decorations go up. By the end of the day, we felt completely at home in this charming seaside town. Thanksgiving weekend is when all of the lights turn on for the big Christmas market display.
Day 2: Amalfi Adventures and a Bus Ride to Remember
The plan for Day 2 was to take a ferry from Salerno to Amalfi, but the weather had other ideas; rough seas meant all ferries were canceled for the day. (The theme of this trip would soon be canceled transportation!) With a positive attitude and limited options, we decided to take an Italian bus along the famously winding roads of the Amalfi Coast. This was a journey that was equal parts thrilling and nerve-wracking. For anyone unfamiliar, these buses are an experience! The roads are breathtakingly narrow, winding along cliffs that offer dramatic views of the sea, but the drivers, who seem unfazed by the precarious terrain, tend to fill the buses to the absolute brim. If you can keep yourself from worrying about if the bus driver is going to make it around the next corner, the views are fabulous. Sit on the left side of the bus if heading to Amalfi, and the right side if heading back.
The ride to Amalfi itself, while crowded, was manageable, as we got to the stop early enough to secure seats; however, the return trip was a different story entirely. Unlike ferries or trains, bus tickets along this route don’t come with guaranteed seating or even a spot on a specific bus; instead, tickets are oversold, and passengers line up hoping to secure a place onboard. The bus company operates on a first-come, first-serve basis, which means if you’re not near the front of the line, you might not make it on the bus at all. We got in line about an hour before departure and were far from the first there. We saw several groups left behind as buses filled up quickly, with passengers packed like sardines into every available inch of space.
Once aboard, we found ourselves standing in the aisles along with dozens of others; the bus felt chaotic and overly crowded, with every seat taken and the narrow aisles filled shoulder-to-shoulder with passengers. To make matters more complicated, I was holding Asher, and while most people were kind, it was difficult to maneuver or get comfortable; thankfully, a kind couple made room by having one of them sit on the other’s lap, giving me a seat for the ride. Ryan and my mom, unfortunately, had to stand for the entire journey, and the experience of being jostled on steep, winding roads was less than ideal.
💡 Tips for Navigating the Amalfi Coast by Bus:
Arrive at the bus stop early, especially for return trips; being near the front of the line is crucial.
Keep in mind that buses can and will oversell tickets; standing-room-only is common, and you may need to wait for the next bus if it fills up.
Be prepared for a hectic experience, particularly in the off-season when fewer transportation options are available.
Consider alternate transport if traveling with young children or anyone who might struggle with cramped spaces and long standing times.
Once in Amalfi
Despite the challenges of the bus ride, Amalfi itself was beautiful; we explored the main street, admired the intricate details of the cathedral, and enjoyed gelato and lunch at a quaint café overlooking the water.
Reminder: If you are traveling in the off-season it is much cooler (think jackets and possibly scarves as you are off the water!) but also an important reminder that it gets dark just a little after 5 or 6. That means we recommend starting your trek to these cities early in the day to get the full day experience. There is plenty to do and see, but it is not as hustle and bustle as the summer season. This means some shops might be closed, but you won’t be dealing with crowds that are as large which is nice.
Most of the Americans we encountered were on large tours and a part of large groups. They had a tendency to flock to specific restaurants and places in droves, we we worked hard to avoid those. I can see how it might be hard to find space at certain places to eat if a tour is arriving there at the same time. It made me grateful to be there off-season because it was clear this place would be chaos in the summer.
However, by the time we were back in Salerno, the bus ordeal had left us grateful for the comfort and calm of our Airbnb and even more appreciative of Salerno’s ease of accessibility and laid-back charm.
Days 3–4: Exploring Salerno’s Hidden Gems
Back in Salerno, we spent more time discovering the town’s unique spots. One standout was La Fabbrica delle Meraviglie, a whimsical chocolate shop that felt like stepping into Willy Wonka’s factory. From conveyor belts to goggle-wearing staff, the whole experience was magical. Asher isn’t old enough to have fully understood the concept, but we certainly made up for it with our chocolate haul. This is a MUST visit!
Another highlight was a craftsman’s shop across the street, where an artist made intricate miniature villages and dollhouse-like farm scenes. It was such a unique find and added a personal touch to our time in Salerno.
💡 Weekend Vibes:
If you’re in Salerno over the weekend, prepare for a completely different energy. On weeknights, the town feels peaceful and quiet, but come Friday and Saturday, the streets are alive with locals out for dinner and evening strolls. It’s the perfect mix of calm and lively, depending on the day.
Final Thoughts on Salerno and the Amalfi Coast
Salerno turned out to be the ideal base for exploring the Amalfi Coast. It offered the convenience and accessibility we needed, without the overwhelming crowds or high prices of staying in Amalfi or Positano. While Amalfi itself was stunning, I’d choose Salerno again in a heartbeat for its balance of charm, affordability, and local energy.
💡 Key Takeaways:
Salerno’s boardwalk and shopping streets make it a destination in its own right.
Use Salerno as a hub for day trips to Amalfi, Positano, or even Pompeii.
Be flexible with transportation ferries and buses have their quirks, especially in the off-season.
